Pyrenees, France
26 May 2018
With Wen
Our second outing in the Pyrenees, again in the fairly gentle Albera Massif of French Catalonia. This time we drove up as high as we could to the small hamlet of Reuse in the Vallée Heureuse (“Happy Valley”), where a decent trail starts up the ridge towards Puig (or Pic) dels Quatre Termes.
Right at the beginning we had to rock-hop a small stream – there probably used to be a bridge back in the days here, but the water was very shallow so it wasn’t a problem. The path steeply rises on the mountain side, then levels out and hugs the western side of a small ridge leading up to the main summit ridge. This trail was even less beaten than the path we took to Puig Neulós yesterday, and of course we saw nobody around at all. It was nice to have the trail all to ourselves as we plodded up through the quiet forest.
Soon after we passed a trail marker at an intersection, the path got a lot rougher and a bit difficult to find in places. There are yellow markers painted on trees and rocks, sometimes on top of the older blue markers, and if you look around a bit it’s basically impossible to get lost. Near the top of the first ridge we made the mistake of ignoring the markers, preferring the open forest instead. We soon realized that the proper trail actually continued on the other side of the ridge top and was much easier to walk on than in the middle of the forest.
Coming out on the wide-open green meadows near the summit of Puig dels Quatre Termes was pure delight after hours in the forest! The landscape really reminded me of Switzerland, especially with all the cows hanging out on the open ridge top, their bells jingling as they grazed along on either French or Spanish grass. Similar to Puig Neulós, there is a border fence here on the ridge crest, but it’s broken in most parts and nobody cares where you walk. The views are stunning, even better than from the higher Pic Neulós! We had almost the entire coastline along the French-Spanish Mediterranean in plain view, as well as the mighty Pic du Canigou to the west.
From Puig dels Quatre Termes we continued west along the ridge to a slightly higher point called Puig de Pradets. The main GR10 trail loops around the side of this minor peak and there is no path directly up, but the terrain is grassy and open so the summit is easy to get to. We found a small wooden box with miniature porcelain figurines hidden away at the summit cairn.
On descent, we continued westward down to a col and along a short stretch of an old road, then headed down a narrow trail right next to a creek called “Correc de l’Orry” which would’ve taken us straight down the valley back to our car. Unfortunately, this trail turned out to be in pretty poor shape and wasn’t enjoyable at all. We took the first chance we had to get back to the old road – the easy, “no brainer” alternative through the forest that led all the way back to the Vallée Heureuse and the hamlet of Reuse where our car was parked.
In all honesty, the descent along this old track was pretty boring, with very limited views and only one point of interest along the way (the old ruins of the St. Magdalena Chapel; but really nothing special). Nevertheless, if you’re tired of backtracking and just want to get back down, this makes for an easy and gentle walk off the mountain.
DISCLAIMER: Use at your own risk for general guidance only! Do not follow this GPX track blindly but use your own judgement in assessing terrain and choosing the safest route.
Trailhead at the start in the small village of Reuse.
Watch out for a risky river crossing! 🙂
Not so risky today…
A good and uncrowded trail (didn’t see anybody!) leads through the forested slopes of the north ridge.
Almost half-way up, at elevation 570 m, there’s a small spring – “font” in Catalan.
Font dels Miracles. “Wonder spring”!
Views like this are rare, most of the way up is between the trees.
The only “rocky” section along the way – no scrambling necessary.
Almost at the top, we enjoy fine views of the Massane Tower on the next ridge over to the east. The horizon is half sky, half sea.
Close-up of the Massane Tower. Note the small white speck on the right – a sailing boat!
Nearing the summit of Puig dels Quatre Termes.
Summit views of the long and gentle ridge to the east.
French-Spanish border fence.
Another view of this lovely open ridge.
Looking west towards the next bump called Puig de Pradets. Puig de Neulós can be seen in the background to the right with a large telecoms tower on top of it.
Hiking in TWO countries at the same time!
The ridge crest is just above treeline.
View of the French coastline from the summit of Puig de Pradets.
Small figurines hidden in the summit cairn of Puig de Pradets.
There are so many hiking possibilities here! Signs point in all directions: straight ahead is Puig de Pradets in the east, right is down the Spanish side, left down the French side.
A fine day of hiking ends with a boring stretch of gravel road back down to Reuse.