Compression Ridge

Kananaskis, AB, Canada
15 May 2023
Solo

Highly enjoyable ridge walk with great hands-on scrambling

This trip pleasantly surprised me. Somehow I had been under the impression that Compression Ridge isn’t a very nice scramble, but now I can say that it definitely is! If you like lots of routefinding and challenging scrambling problems, that is.

I drove up Powderface Trail, the gravel access road north of highway 66, the day it opened after the winter closure that typically lasts from Dec 1st to mid-May. It had just been graded so travel was smooth (although I wouldn’t want to drive it with a regular car when wet or muddy).

Compression Ridge is sometimes done as an extension from Nihahi Ridge as described in Kane’s Scrambles book, a super long outing necessitating two cars. I decided to go up somewhere around Kane’s descent route from Canyon Creek, follow the ridge south, then descend via the valley west of the ridge and hike back along the rubbly creek bed.

Canyon Creek has intermittent bits of trail in the first few kilometres, but even without the trail it’s a really easy place to hike as far as creek beds go. The flat-bottomed valley is strewn with small pebbles and stretches of grassy floodplain that allow for fast walking. The creek itself was very narrow and only running water in a few places.

After hiking the creek for some 40 minutes, just past the big vertical cliff above the red shale slopes to the south, I entered a narrow drainage on the left that leads up a small side valley. I found it easier to hike through light forest on the left side instead of dealing with debris and boulders in the drainage itself. Soon I left the trees behind and angled up open grass and scree slopes towards a rib that led me directly to the main north-south ridge. It took me a full two hours to this point and by now I definitely knew I was completely out of shape after months of being away from the mountains…

The first third of the ridge walk was pretty straightforward. Lots of small ups and downs heading south, but no serious obstacles in the way until the ridge turned west. Here, I hit the famous pinnacles and the rock window, all easily circumvented on the left (south). To my surprise I found no cairns at all and there was lots of fun routefinding here. To get to the highpoint where the ridge turns south again, I scrambled up some neat slabs and over another rock window near the end.

Then came the most exciting part, the last third of the ridge walk. The true summit is easily reached, but right after that the ridge completely changes in character. First there is a narrow, vertical, free-standing wall with serious exposure on both sides. Thankfully, the rock is solid and the section is fairly short. This is followed by an even narrower stretch of jagged, rotten rock. I think this is where Kane suggests going around the west side on rubble below the crest, but the ridge top itself works too if you’re comfortable with exposure and tip toeing on very narrow ledges, using the rock flakes to your right as a “railing”. There were a few more steep sections to negotiate, then the terrain eased off as I approached the southern end where you can connect to Nihahi Ridge to the east or Mount Howard to the west.

By now I had been out for six hours and I was feeling my legs! The dark clouds that had accumulated in the distance had also disappeared, so all was good as I sat down for an extended break taking in the views. All the difficult spots were behind me and I knew the descent would be pretty relaxed. The only thing that cut short my break were the millions of flies and bugs buzzing around me in the windless and stale air, a very strange phenomenon for mid-May.

The valley west of Compression Ridge worked great as a quick way down. I descended scree and grass slopes to valley bottom and followed the rubbly creek bed (running water in places) back to Canyon Creek. The trudge back along Canyon Creek was a bit mind-numbing and I was very tired when I finally got back to my car – I had no idea how much I’d gotten out of shape! Although this was an energy-sapping trip for me it still rates as one of the finest difficult scrambles I can think of in close proximity to Calgary.

Elevation:

2550 m

Elevation gain:

1420 m

Time:

9.0 h

Distance:

18.3 km

Difficulty level:

Difficult (Kane), T6 (SAC)

Reference:

Kane & own routefinding

Personal rating:

5 (out of 5)

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Canyon Creek near the trailhead. Mount Bryant in the distance.
Indigenous prayer flags on a tree in the rubbly creek bed.
This is the narrow drainage I took on the south side of Canyon Creek.
After slogging up a good ways toward the ridge, brilliant views opened up, with Mount Bryant taking centre stage.
Looking at the northern end of Compression Ridge.
Close-up of the jagged part of the ridge that features pinnacles, rock windows and drop-offs.
Looking back at Canyon Creek below.
Finally on the ridge top!
Some interesting corals in the carbonate rock here.
Looking north at the edge of the Front Ranges.
To the east is Moose Mountain with its fire lookout on top.
The first (northern) stretch is mostly easy.
The summit of Nihahi Ridge (left) comes into full view. Nihahi is another excellent extended hands-on ridge scramble.
Dropping towards a saddle and the first rock window.
Pinnacles can be avoided on the left (south side).
Looking back at one particularly striking pinnacle.
The rock window looks like an angry monster from here.
One-eyed rock monster.
The rock window as seen from the west side.
More pinnacles and slabs as I continue west.
Interesting but easy routefinding. In this section most obstacles are bypassed on the south side.
Looking back east.
This is where the ridge turns SW.
The beautiful cliffs in the valley below that gave Canyon Creek its name.
Compression Ridge true summit.
Compression Ridge summit cairn.
Thousands of flies and bugs descend upon me as I sit down to take a break.
Great views of Mount Howard (just left of centre), another terrific scramble in this area.
View south.
At 2935 m Mount Glasgow is one of the highest in the area.
The section of ridge south of the summit is more narrow and exposed.
Approaching a very narrow but short spine.
The spine has vertical drops on both sides.
Looking back.
And on to the next challenge.
An even narrower spine of rotten and crumbly rock.
Looking back along the ridge.
Eventually the terrain becomes easier.
This is where I turned right (west) to the connecting ridge with Mount Howard.
Mount Howard
To the east is the summit block of Nihahi Ridge.
Looking back at the E-W section of Compression Ridge, you can barely make out the second rock window (which I climbed over) just below the high point seen here.
Directly below me to the east is Prairie Creek, an alternative access route for both Compression and Nihahi.
Light and shadow on the ridge towards Nihahi.
The valley I used for my descent. You could also take the small ridge on the left as I did for my Mount Howard descent.
Scree and rubble quickly take you down to the valley where bits of grass and a pebbly creek bed await.
A rock bulwark looms over Canyon Creek ahead.