Exploring the beauty of the mountains through easy hikes and scrambles

Mount Townsend

 

25 June 2015

Solo

 

This is a long trip with a lengthy and painful approach that will get you to the summit of a remote and rarely ascended mountain. It takes about 10 km of hiking along Cougar Creek before you actually reach the base of the mountain, and by then you’ve gained almost half the total elevation. Cougar Creek is definitely one of the better creeks to hike in this area; most other creekbeds are full of jumbled logs and chock stones that have to be awkwardly negotiated (e.g. Mounts Inglismaldie and Girouard), but this creek is mostly free of such messy roadblocks.

I followed the valley past the Canadian Forks to its upper reaches where it narrows and makes a sharp right turn, continuing eastward and then northeast to the SW slopes of Mount Townsend. These offer a fairly straightforward way up, first along huge steepish slabs of rock with good grip, then along a minor undulating ridge that eventually peters out in a huge slanted scree field that can easily be traversed northward to get to the base of the summit mass. From a distance, the summit mass looks awfully intimidating, with huge vertical cliffs separating an upward steepening smooth rock slope. However, as I got closer, things looked more manageable, at least as far as my immediate vision could tell. The lower rock band is easily overcome by scrambling up a ramp that leads to the upper summit slope. The rock is loose in places, but careful foot placement is all that’s needed to scramble up here. After some easy scree, I then chose the central vertical crack that leads directly up to the summit (although this can be avoided by going around climber’s right). This arte involved some moderate to difficult but fun scrambling on downsloping rock with relatively good holds and moderate exposure, and after about 20 minutes I was on top of Mount Townsend (2824 m). Gorgeous views all around: South Ghost Peak, Association Peak, and Morrowmount to the east, Fable and the “Mythic Towers” immediately to the south, and Stenton Peak to the NW. Glancing down the summit towards Exshaw Pass, it looked like Mount Townsend can also be accessed by going over the pass and circling around to the west to gain the north ridge.

Edit June 2016: The route via Exshaw Pass is a no-go. I’ve seen reports of people being turned around by very difficult vertical terrain just below the summit, so the route I took and describe here is likely still the best way to climb Mount Townsend.

On descent, I decided to veer around the vertical crack on skier’s left and thereby avoided most of the steep slabs directly below the summit. This alternate descent route took me down easy rubble first, followed by a few short sections of moderate scrambling on slanted rock faces. The remainder of the way down was easy and fast – I mostly traced back my steps and then took the easiest way down back into the valley. Another 3.5 hours of bashing over boulders and pebbles to get back to the parking lot at the Iron Goat and my aching feet definitely had enough for today!

 

Townsend_Stats

Townsend_Map-1 Townsend_Map-2

 

DOWNLOAD ROUTE (GPX FILE)

DISCLAIMER: Use at your own risk for general guidance only! Do not follow this GPX track blindly but use your own judgement in assessing terrain and choosing the safest route.

 

Townsend_COR_4950

Easy travel in the broad lower valley of Cougar Creek.

Townsend_COR_4958

Higher up in the creek, there are some large boulders to negotiate, but nothing difficult.

Townsend_COR_4971_annotated

First view of Mount Townsend from Cougar Creek. Ascent route drawn in red, optional (and easier) descent route in blue.

Townsend_COR_4968

Close-up of summit mass of Mount Townsend.

Townsend_IMG_7539

This is a view of Mount Townsend from Cougar Peak earlier in the year (April 2015). The huge cliffband on the SE side of the summit really stands out. The small peak on far right is Epic Tower

Townsend_IMG_7539_annotated

Same as above, with route drawn in.

Townsend_IMG_7540

Close-up of the summit of Mount Townsend as seen from Cougar Peak (April 2015).

Townsend_IMG_7540_annotated

As above, showing ascent route (red) and optional descent route (blue).

Townsend_COR_4974

Steep rubbly slabs of rock on the lower slopes of Mount Townsend allow you to gain elevation quickly.

Townsend_COR_4979

To the north of the ascent slopes and directly below the summit is a huge, near-vertical gully that would be very difficult, if not impossible, to scramble.

Townsend_COR_4981_annotated

Looking back down Cougar Creek – ascent route shown in red. Cougar Peak is on the left.

Townsend_COR_4982

Nearing the huge vertical cliff that guards the summit.

Townsend_COR_4986

Fortunately, there is a narrow scree ramp just below this blocky cliff to circumvent this major obstacle.

 

Townsend_COR_5035

Looking up the vertical crack that leads directly to the summit.

Townsend_COR_4996

Some fun scrambling (moderate to difficult) in the vertical crack. Good holds and solid rock, but there’s plenty of rubble!

Townsend_COR_5026

From the vertical crack, looking north towards the next cliffband. This picture really gives you an idea of the downsloping nature of the rock near the summit.

Townsend_COR_4992

Finally at the summit! Mount Fable shows up on the left, with Mount Lougheed poking through in the distance on the right.

Townsend_COR_4993

Looking back at Cougar Peak.

Townsend_COR_5001

Looking west: Wendell Mountain is the broad, brown scree mound in the middle. To the right is Morrowmount. Cross Peak is on far left.

Townsend_COR_5005

Stenton Peak to the NW. Just behind it and slightly to the left are Mount Girouard and (further left and behind) Mount Inglismaldie.

Townsend_COR_5008

Looking down Exshaw Creek.

Townsend_COR_5015

Epic Tower and Mythic Tower to the SE (centre), with Mount Fable on the right.

Townsend_COR_5025

South Ghost Peak (left) and End Mountain in the background.

Townsend_COR_5031

Impressive cliffs on descent.

Townsend_COR_5056

Somehow this dead tree reminded me of…. a toilet brush!