Mount Etherington

High Rock Range, AB, Canada
5 September 2021
With Vern


Rubble and wind

Of the two destinations that Vern and I went for today, I think it’s safe to say we both enjoyed Mount Scrimger far more. Mount Etherington was somewhat anticlimactic. The winds had also picked up again so that certainly played a role in us not having such a great time on our second peak of the day. 

The route up Mount Etherington is pretty simple. From the Etherington-Scrimger col we worked our way up the south ridge, which looks more intimidating from a distance but really is no more than easy to perhaps lower moderate scrambling. There a several small rock bands and steps that can typically be tackled head on or circumvented on the left (west) side, with one bypass on the east face where there is an obvious game trail along a wide ledge for about 30 m before you scramble back up the ridge crest. Shortly after that, about half way up the south ridge, we encountered a more serious vertical wall about 20-30 m high. There may be a climber’s route up this wall, but a safer bet is to contour below it around the west side until it becomes broken up and you can trudge up heaps of rubble back to the ridge crest. We first tried to break through this cliff a bit too soon and had to retreat at a small rock overhang in a gully, then found a much easier route only 50-100 m further north. There weren’t any cairns and no trails have formed in the rubble yet, which shows how unpopular this mountain (still) is. I’m not surprised – the approach to get here is long and there are more interesting objectives elsewhere. 

After slogging back to the ridge top, it was still quite a distance to the summit but the terrain was easy. We stumbled like drunks as strong gusts pushed us around, a draining experience and you can’t even talk because the wind is so noisy! The reward at the end was a beautiful panoramic view of the rarely visited Henretta basin to the west, a broad cirque of alpine meadows and creeks surrounded by a series of also rarely visited mountains including Gill, Courcelette, Aldridge, Cornwell and Baril. Vern and I had talked about also tagging on Henretta Peak to the north of Mount Etherington, a minor and unofficially named summit, but we didn’t feel like dealing with even more rubble and wind for another three hours today. 

We made our way back along the same route and took a nice break along the goat trail on the wind-sheltered east side of the ridge where we even had cell phone reception. The hike to our bikes at the seismic line was pretty quick and then we were in for a super fast and thrilling ride back to the car. I wiped out right at the beginning where the trail was still rough and full of deep holes hidden in the grass, but thankfully I wasn’t going too fast here and got away with a few scratches. These are the times when you’re reminded that wearing your scrambling helmet for the bike ride is probably a smart idea! 

This was a great two-peak combo in a fairly long day. Mount Scrimger is arguably the more challenging and more interesting objective, while Mount Etherington is slightly easier to access, with both peaks offering great views of a remote corner of the Canadian Rockies. 

Be sure to check out Vern’s report for this trip! 

 

Elevation:

2870 m (Mount Etherington)

Elevation gain:

2170 m

Time:

11.0 h

Distance:

37.7 km (of which ca. 25 km by bike)

Difficulty level:

Easy to moderate (Kane), T3-T4 (SAC)

Activity:

Hiking & scrambling

Reference:

Own routefinding

Comments:

Stats above are for both Scrimger & Etherington

Personal rating:

3 (out of 5)

 

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The south ridge of Mount Etherington. This is the point where we bypassed the rock bands on the right (east) side.
Good ledges offer an easy bypass for some 50-100 m here.
Looking back along the ledges towards Mount Scrimger.
Vern approaching the upper and more serious cliff band.
This obstacle is easily bypassed on the left (west).
The broad Henretta basin is below us to the left.
Approaching the summit of Mount Etherington.
Henretta Peak sits just to the north. It doesn’t look far, but would add at least another 2.5 to 3 hours round-trip from here.
Distant front range peaks and ridges to the east. Just left of centre is Mount Burke, to the right the aptly named Plateau Mountain.
Like a beautiful step pyramid: Mount Cornwell to the NW.
On our way back through sections of rubble to avoid the vertical cliff band.
Henretta Creek far below us drains the basin to the BC side.
A short break and reprieve from the fierce winds on the east-facing ledges. Lucky for us we even have cell phone reception here today (but don’t count on it)!
Heading back towards the saddle between Mount Scrimger in the distance and Mount Etherington.
Close-up of Mount Scrimger main summit. The near vertical cliff band below the summit can be avoided by taking a scree ledge below its west summit to the right (out of field of view).

Back at the saddle.
Looking back up at Etherington’s south ridge.
Vern making his way down the headwall on our way back towards the cutline.