Smutwood Peak

Kananaskis, AB, Canada
5 October 2025
With Wen, Keegan and Queenie

Classic Kananaskis larch hike

Yes, I think this hike can already be considered a “classic” even though it was pretty much unknown before 2007, the year Andrew Nugara released the first edition of his More Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies guidebook. Smutwood Peak, named after Mount Smuts and Mount Birdwood nearby, is the epitome of an insta-famous (or infamous, if you will) scramble, with hordes of hikers now flocking to do the pilgrimage. Ok, I’m exaggerating a bit here, but I do think Smutwood’s popularity has now eclipsed that of Tent Ridge, Mount Baldy, and even Yamnuska (although of course each one of these is an entirely different type of mountain experience).

And all with good reason. Smutwood is indeed one of the loveliest outings I’ve done in Kananaskis. It (almost) has it all: a good trail, variety of terrain, some fun and easy scrambling, alpine lakes, and stunning 360 degree views that start even before you get to the top. And we can all thank Nugara’s pioneering efforts for that – so thank you, Andrew!

Teaming up with Keegan and his friend Queenie, Wen and I joined the fun on this early October day for a late season larch hike together with about 150 other people (no exaggeration). Given the popularity of this hike, it definitely pays to arrive at the trailhead early! It was 8:30 am when we arrived and the parking lot was already full…

The hike starts with a lenghty approach, perhaps the only slight downside to this outing. We followed the well-beaten path going south to Commonwealth Creek, where it then turns southwest and heads up the valley to a lovely open cirque filled with meadows and stands of trees. This is, by the way, the same approach as for The Fist and Mount Smuts, featured in Alan Kane’s iconic Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies bible.

The good thing about this hike being so popular is that you don’t have to worry about running into bears as much. Now, this doesn’t mean you can just let your guard down and leave your bear spray at home – a bear encounter is still possible of course. This is prime bear habitat after all.

The views get better and better as you climb out of the cirque and up towards the saddle between Mount Smuts on the right and Mount Birdwood on the left. This is the steepest part of the day and a bit of a grind, but on a good trail. We enjoyed a short lunch break in a wind-sheltered spot near the saddle and then continued on the main trail past two small alpine lakes to another, higher saddle that marks the beginning of Smutwood’s southeast ridge. The views from here to the summit are just incredible. On a bluebird day like this we couldn’t help but pause frequently to turn around and take in the vistas of the lakes in front of Mount Birdwood’s spire-like silhouette. A skiff of snow that had fallen overnight gave the mountain a bit of a frosted look, which slowly disappeared as the day warmed.

Smutwood’s southeast ridge is not entirely a walk in the park. Sure, if you’re used to scrambling this one is definitely easy. We saw several groups that split up because some members weren’t comfortable proceeding up the various rock bands and short, steep scree sections where good footwear, poles, and some experience come in handy. The summit block reminded us of a miniature Everest scene: a colourful ant trail of people slowly snaking its way to the top. This is where rock fall accidents can happen and a helmet would probably not be a bad idea here. We joined about two dozen other people at the top and sat down to soak up fantastic panoramic views in all directions. There is also a little side bump nearby that requires a few moderate scrambling moves to get to the top.

Our descent took us way longer than expected; the views up here are just so impressive that you have no choice but to take it slow and make frequent stops to admire your surroundings. After mostly doing trips in remote areas that are devoid of people in the last few years, Smutwood Peak was a bit of a shock to me first. However, as the day went on I started to realize how beautiful it is to see all these people, young and old, being active and enjoying our wonderful Rockies backyard. Sharing the experience with my friends and seeing the smiles on so many other friendly people’s faces is a very warming and happy feeling, one that I don’t often get when I explore some unknown trail somewhere in the middle of nowhere. There is a reason why Smutwood is so popular with the crowds – and having been part of that crowd I can now totally see why. You won’t be disappointed on this hike as long as you’re fine with having lots of other people around you – just make sure you start early! 

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